greeneleafe.com blog

Wool Crepe Shift Dress

Featured in the photograph above is  my latest take on the shift dress silhoutte in wool crepe.  The body of the dress is constructed of two layers of wool crepe in a beige-taupe color.  The shape of the dress is reminiscent of a flower bud shape.  The dress is wide at top and narrower at base/hem.  The shape of the dress is achieved using box-pleats on each side panel.  I have added a self-fabric rose at the neckline using cartridge pleats to continue the flower theme.  

Back view of Wool Crepe Shift Dress

The photograph above is a detail of the back neckline of the dress which features a trifoliate applique that continues the flower theme of the dress established in the overall shape of the dress and the flower at the front of the dress.

Hem of Wool Crepe Shift Dress

The photograph above shows a detail of the hem.  Notice how the side panels add depth and volume to the simple shift silhoutte.

Since temperatures have become noticeably chillier I have been playing with wool fabrics.

A traditional English style wool plaid caught my eye recently.  It is 100% wool – what they label 140’s or 150’s.  I brought it home and put it through a delicate cold wash and dry cycle.  Afterwards I subjected the fabric to a nice long pressing using the highst heat setting on my cute little iron I purchased at a five and dime for $10.   I took a few quick snapshots without making any effort to style the photograph.

Plaid Wool Sheath Dress

Closeup of Plaid Wool Sheath Dress

Back View of Plaid Wool Sheath Dress

Interested buyers may contact me using the comment link at the end of my post.  Thank you!!!!

 The last few weeks have been hectic for me.  To tie up lose ends, I wound up completing a total of five different variations of the white voile underdress.  The first three versions are discussed in my post titled Rectangular Godets.  The last two variations again focused on different treatments of the neckline.  One variation features appliqued flowers in self-fabric and the last variation uses raw edge ruffles.

I wanted to share my experiment using Dotted Swiss Cotton Voile.  This fabric is fairly expensive for a cotton.  Despite the price tag, the grain was not even.  Initially, I couldn’t tell if this was a result of poor manufacturing or incorrect cutting at the fabric store.  The fabric is extremely sheer, soft and limp.

Dotted Swiss Voile Shift Dress

I crafted it into a double layered a-line shift with a rounded neckline adorned with a self-fabric flower.  To round out the dress and give a few more wearing options, I created a self-fabric belt to wear looped around the waist or as a scarf around the head.  I have layered a white cotton voile underdress with rectangular godets underneath the dotted swiss voile dress to give it more body and substance.

I know the temperatures have been falling so this dress may not be suitable for wear right now.  But if anyone is interested in purchasing this dress or one made to a similar pattern contact me using the comment link at bottom of post.  Thank you!!!

Update October 30 2009:

Alternative Neckline Treatment

The above photograph shows the dress with an alternative neckline treatment.

Constructed of 100% cashmere wool.  The outside of the frock coat is constructed of cashmere wool in camel color.  The interior of the frock coat is constructed of cashemere wool in  charcoal grey color.

Design Features:  Trapunto-style stitching defines the very high set of the waistline. Generous pleats all the way around the coat creates a full silhouette.   The sleeves are long and narrow.  There are three raw-edged ribbons to close the coat bodice.   The skirt remains open.

Measurements:  Length is 45 inches (approximately 114 cm) from neckline to hemline (measured from the back of the frock coat).  Circumference of the waist is 40 inches (approximately 101 cm).  The waist of the frock coat is really high – it is located at the middle of the bust .   Shoulder width:  18 inches (approximately 46 cm).  The measurement around the arm socket is about 16 inches (approximately 41 cm).  This measurement is what will determine if you will feel comfortable in the coat.  If your arm socket measurement exceeds 16 inches you will not be very comfortable.  These measurements are approximate.

Sizing:  Women who usually wear sizes that range from 0 to 6 should be able to wear this coat.

Price:  $449 (USD)
Shipping: Free Shipping via USPS Priority Mail

At this point I have completed three different versions of a white cotton voile underdress.  All three underdresses share a simple shift silhoutte.  Only the treatment of the neckline and hemline differ in the three samples.  The first design wound up having a tiny notched neckline and one godet incorporated into the two side seams to slightly increase the fullness of the hemline.  The second design had a simple rounded neckline and rectangular godets.  I really like the effect of the recgtangular “godets” in the second design for the white voile underdress.  I carried this feature over into the third design but modified the rounded neckline by adding a ruffled peter pan collar.

In terms of design elements, the rectangular godets feel a lot nicer to me.  There are no sharp elements in the design to poke the wearer.  The regular godets (which have a triangular shape) are just too poky for me.  I also like the ruffled peter pan collar.  It adds a bit of romantic fun. 

The goal in developing the underdress was to modify the look and feel of a tunic which had high side slits and a very deeply notched neckline.  I decided to use white cotton voile since I had enough fabric in hand to experiment.  I decided to double layer the fabric to provide opacity as well as a little substance to the underdress.  In cutting the pattern, I tried to avoid wastage of material.  I folded the fabric into four and I cut the pattern on the grain, parallel to the selvage.  I was able to accomplish my goal of not having any wasted fabric by using rectangular godets and reincorporating as ruffles etc the stray bits of fabric left over from cutting the neckline and armsyce. 

 Overall the silhoutte of the underdress really needed the addition of the godets to give it an elegant drape.  Otherwise it would have been very narrow.   The use of ruffles further embellished the design so that when worn with the tunic there is extra interest at both neckline and hemline.

I updated the text on the Home Page to be more reflective of my true ideals when I started this business.  I learned how to sew out of necessity.  In this regard I am pretty much an example of the American myth of the self-sufficient, independent settlers who shaped the ethos of this country. 

Coming back to my predicament, much of what is available in the marketplace does not feel good to my skin or body.  It does not take into account how my body wants to be dressed.  So I set about stitiching my own garments.  I learned a lot by reading all the fashion media – the  quest for excellence etc ad nauseum.   I also learned a lot by visiting museums and exhibitions and good old regular department stores.  All of these experiences have been my teachers and guides as I struggled with transforming a flat piece of cloth into shaped and structured garments.  I guess it also helped to have a knack for three dimensional visualization. 

Also to note, I have begun a new design project.  I am still working with white voile.  This time instead of using godets with their triangle shape to add width to the hemline, I have decided to apply a rectangle and see what sorts of design features crop up.

Ok that’s it for today!!!  bye bye!!

I finished the voile underdress yesterday night.  It feels very comfortable.  In the end it turned out to not have the lace edging at the neckline.  Lace is a thing I don’t have much intuition for with regard to its placement or usage.  If there is any use to the stuff at all, I am best when it is proper fabric yardage size.  In such situations, I treat the lace much as I would fabric.

The godets were an intersting adventure since this was my first time working with this design feature.  I definitely like the width it adds to the hemline.  But I am not sure I like the shape of the hemline.  It has a sort of waifish unevenness with pointed ends and odd angles.  “Very stylish and moderne!  Very of the moment!” was my husband’s verdict.

The sewing of the underdress is going along with all the usual excitement a new sewing project usually brings.  Since I do all the sewing by hand even straight simple seams can take a while to finish.  I have noticed that many people have returned to hand sewing.  I guess I am part of that trend.

So far I have finished the shoulder seams and am working on the side seams.  I was going apace when I discovered to my dismay I had forgotten to pin in the godet.  So, I had to undo the seam I was stitching and insert the godet.

One thing about me is that I am reluctant to cut fabric unnecessarily.  I really feel bad about cutting into fabric so I like to minimize the number of cuts I make into the fabric.  I also hate wasting fabric and having odd little ends of fabric littering my home.  So I wind up finding all sorts of weird ways to accommodate excess fabric at the seams.

I like finished seams that are also sturdy enough to withstand vigorous machine washing.  This usually translates to french seams mosts of the time for me.  I have completed the shoulder seams of the underdress using french seams and intend to do the same for the remaining seams. 

Ok,  have to sign off and get back to sewing….

Hello Dear Reader!

I will be putting up more posts in the coming days on a variety of topics.  Some will be about my current design projects.  Others will be on subjects or topics that are of interest to me.

Currently, I am working on a new dress design. Some of my designs are prompted by images of clothes I see in the media or museums or exhibitions.   Other designs are inspired by necessity.  My current project falls into the latter category. 

I wanted to add a little more substance to a kurta-style tunic I find myself wearing a lot.  It is fairly lightweight – a characteristic that is desirable given the summer heat.  But I don’t like the under-dressed feel I have when wearing it – a result of the fairly high side slits.

I banged about for a solution to this problem until I hit upon the perfect answer:  a petticoat.  Of course, since I design clothes I can make a petticoat that answers my particular need instead of having to go with whatever is available in stores. 

My vision of a petticoat for the tunic is really an underdress.  Typically a  petticoat remains hidden and plays a supportive role for the garment worn on top.   An underdress on the other hand is usually visible and completes the overall look of a design.  By deciding to construct an underdress to accompany the tunic  I am in effect modifying its overall design sensibility.

 My current vision for the underdress features a distinctly different but complimentary neckline and hem from that of the tunic.  The underdress’s neckline will be high, round and accented with cotton lace.  This will stand in contrast to the tunic’s open notched neckline.  The hem of the underdress will feature godets at the sides to provide coverage, fullness, and ease.  This will be in contrast to the high slits the tunic has at both sides.  

The underdress  will be made out of cotton voile doubled for opacity.  I noticed when holding the voile fabric I intend to use up to the light its opacity changes depending on whether the selvage of the fabric is horizontal or vertical.  Since the objective of the design is to achieve a more substantial feel, I decided to cut my pattern so that the length of the underdress is parallel to the selvage. 

The general design is to construct the underdress as an A-line with a high round neckline adorned with a bit of lace for interest and godets at the hem to allow for fullness and ease.  In the process of creation, a lot of little interesting details creep in to the original design.  Let’s see how it goes….